Along for the ride, but with a better view.

Month: July 2012

Post ID: 38

Just some camels on the beach, no big deal. First quarter moon falling behind the mosque This is cheese in its most elemental form. I call it “Just Cheese!” my homage to Jack from Will & Grace. This is made with cow’s milk, although goat […]

put it in your mouth

Before I arrived in Morocco, I made the decision to just eat everything. Barring obviously sketchy things like rare meat or fish, some street food like snails, and sheep brains, I was going to quiet the worrying part of my brain and just eat like […]

An Afternoon Above it All

In the hills above the city of Tetouan, dotted with sheep and houses, there is a restaurant. I don’t know the name; it probably doesn’t have one. There are some plastic chairs and tables underneath a roof made of poles. There is a stunning view […]

Leave the gun, take the pastries.

One thing any visitor to Tetouan, whether interested in food or just hungry, discovers quickly is that they do pastries right. The converging influences in the area, including France from colonial times in early 20th century, nearby Spain, the cultural and religious connection of the […]

The Great Anchovy Affair: A Conspiracy of Pescatorian Proportions

La Esquina del Pescado, a decidedly Spanish-style seafood restaurant in Tetouan, is decorated in a kitschy way with an ocean theme: blue and white, nets, paintings of boats. Take away the heavy blue and white tablecloths and chair covers, and it could pass for charming. […]


At this point in my studies of the Arabic language, a week in, I know the alphabet: how to write and read the letters and what sounds they make. I can read words, although I feel like a kid again slowly sounding out the letters […]


Chefchaouen Chefchaouen, from the Berber word for “horns”, is a city about an hour and a half inland from Tetouan, and is so called because of its placement in the Rif Mountains between two peaks. It is reached by driving on winding roads up, up, […]

The count

I have been in Morocco for 5 days, have seen 3 black cats cross my path, had a delicious chicken and rice dinner 2 nights in a row, heard the call to prayer 27 times, had 12 hours of Arabic class where I learned 17 […]